MAIN HOME PAGE > Technical T O C > General Engine Specs > Ignition Conversion Page 1 > Logic Computer Controlled Special thanks to John B. at: johnb66@aol.com for submitting the following infoReplacing Logic Computer-Controlled Ignition (w/fuel injection)
NOTE:
THE CHRYSLER FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM REQUIRES A SIGNAL GENERATED BY THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT DISTRIBUTOR. TO INSTALL THIS KIT, THE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM MUST BE ELIMINATED. THIS IGNITION KIT WILL NOT OPERATE THE FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM USED ON CHRYSLER CORPORATION VEHICLES.Additional tools required:
electrical drill
wire cutter/stripper
twelve volt test light
roll of 14 gauge electrical wire
one 14 gauge Sckotlok® electrical connectors
one 14 gauge round eyelet electrical connector
one 14 gauge female spade electrical connector
one 12 female spade electrical connector
electrical tape
- Choose a suitable location for the electronic control unit (ECU). The ECU must be bolted down, make sure the mounting location selected is a flat surface and can be drilled through. The ECU should be located away from the exhaust system, in the coolest place possible. Recommended locations are: the corners of the firewall; the inner fenderwell; the radiator support panel/grill area; or under the dashboard, inside the car.
- Using the new wiring harness provided with the ignition kit, connect the two wire distributor wiring plug into the similar on the distributor. Place the five-wire ECU plug at the location chosen for mounting the ECU. Make sure the new wiring harness can be routed from the distributor to the ECU while avoiding exhaust parts and sharp edges. Try to follow the cars existing wiring harness, if possible.
- Once it is confirmed that the wiring harness will reach the location, use the ECU as a guide and mark the bolt holes on each side of the ECU.
- The attaching hardware to mount the ECU must be provided. It is not included in the kit. Either nuts and bolts or sheet metal screws can be used. If using sheet metal screws make sure the sharp points will not damage or contact anything on the opposite side of the mounting location. If using nuts and bolts make sure the nuts can be reached on the opposite side of the mounting location to tighten them. Drill holes to mount the ECU, making sure they are the correct size for the bolts or screws being used. Mount the ECU and tighten securely.
- Connect the five-way plug to the ECU and route the distributor wires so that they will be protected from harm. If possible run them through existing looms and/or use plastic ties to secure them to the existing wiring harness.
- Remove all the wires connected to the ignition coil. All wires are to be left disconnected. They should be covered with electrical tape and secured to prevent grounding. They will not be used.
- Identify the three loose wires of the wiring harness. There will be a black wire (with a yellow tracer or line), a blue wire (with a yellow wire) and a green wire (with a red tracer).
- The green wire is not used and should be cut off at the point where it comes out of the wire harness’s protective wrapping.
- The black wire should be routed the negative side of the ignition coil. Avoid the exhaust manifolds and sharp edges. Follow the cars existing wiring harness, if possible. Once suitably routed to the coil, cut the black wire to remove any excess. Strip the insulation off the last 1/4 inch of wire. Crimp the round eyelet provided in the ignition kit to the exposed wire. Attach the black wire to the negative side of the ignition coil.
- Choose a location to mount the ballast resister.
- The attaching hardware to mount the new ballast resistor must be provided. It is not included in the kit. Either a nut and bolt or a sheet metal screw can be used. If using a sheet metal screw, make sure the sharp point will not damage or contact anything on the other side of the mounting location. If using a nut and bolt, make sure the nut can be reached on the opposite side of the mounting location to tighten it. Drill a hole to mount the ballast resistor, making sure the hole is the correct size for the bolt of screw being used. Mount the ballast resistor and tighten. Do not over tighten the resistor as the porcelain may crack.
- Route the blue wire to the new ballast resistor. Avoid the exhaust manifolds and sharp edges. Follow existing wiring harness’s if possible. Do not cut the blue wire at this time.
- Locate the main ignition feed, (MIF) as it comes through the firewall at the master disconnect connector. Refer to the chart on page 8 and the connector shown on page 9 to determine the style of master disconnect connector and the location of the MIF on the vehicle being modified.
- Temporarily reconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition key to the "on" position. Do not turn to the "start" position. Use a 12-volt tester to verify that the MIF found in step #13 has power when the key is in the "on" position and has no power when the key is in the "off" position.
- Turn the ignition key off and disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Use 14-gauge wire and splice into the MIF. Do not cut the MIF. A splice must be made as the MIF must still power many other under hood functions. An electrical connector with the trademarked name Schotlok® is very useful. Splice or ScotchLok the 14-gauge wire to the MIF, then securely wrap the splice with electrical tape to seal out moisture and prevent grounding.
- Route the spliced 14-gauge wire to the new ballast resistor, where the blue wire of the new wiring harness was previously routed.
- Allow 3 inches of extra wire of engine movement, then cut off both the blue wire and the new wire splice into the MIF. Strip 1/4 inch of the insulation from both wires. Place both of the stripped wires into one of the 12-gauge female spade connectors and crimp securely. Wrap the connection with electrical tape.
- Route a 14-gauge wire from the positive side of the ignition coil to the ballast resistor. Avoid the exhaust manifolds and sharp edges. Follow existing wiring harness, if possible. Leave plenty of extra wire and cut off the new wire by the ballast resistor. On the end of the new wire by the ignition coil, strip the insulation from 1/4 inch of the new wire. Crimp the 14-gauge round eyelet onto the new wire and connect it to the positive side of the coil. On the other end, strip 1/4 inch of insulation and crimp a 14-gauge female spade connector onto the new coil wire. Wrap the connection with electrical tape.
- Plug the terminal containing the blue wire from the new harness ] and the MIF splice wire into one end of the new ballast resistor.
- Plug the new coil wire into the opposite end of the ballast resistor.
Proceed to Basic Start-up and Adjustment
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