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Special thanks to John B. at: johnb66@aol.com for submitting the following info

REPLACING POINT TYPE IGNITION:

Additional Tools Required:
Electric drill, wire cutter/stripper,
one 12 gauge solder-less electrical connector,
12volt test light,
electrical tape

1. Choose a suitable location for the Electronic Control Unit (ECU). The ECU must be bolted down, make sure the mounting location selected is a flat surface and can be drilled through. The ECU should be located away from the exhaust system, in the coolest place possible. Recommended locations are: the corners of the firewall; the inner fender well; the radiator support panel/grill area; or under the dashboard, inside the car
2. Using the new wiring harness provided with the ignition kit, connect the two wire distributor wiring plug into the similar plug on the distributor. Place the five wire ECU plug at the location chosen for mounting the CU. Make sure the new wiring harness can be routed from the distributor to the ECU while avoiding exhaust parts and sharp edges. Try to follow the cars existing wiring harness if possible
3. Once it is confirmed that the wiring harness will reach the ECU mounting location, use the ECU as a guide and mark the bolt holes on each side of the ECU
4. The attaching hardware to mount the ECU must be provided, it is not included in the kit. Either nuts and bolts or sheet metal screws can be used, If using sheet metal screws, make sure the sharp points will not damage or contact anything on the opposite side of the mounting location. If using nuts and bolts, make sure the nuts can be reached on the opposite side of the mounting location to tighten them. Drill holes to mount the ECU, making sure they are the correct size for the bolts or screws being used. Mount the ECU and tighten securely
5. Connect the five way plug to the ECU and route the distributor wires so they will be protected from harm. If possible, run them through existing loom and/or use plastic ties to secure them to the existing wiring harness
6. Identify the three loose wires of the wiring harness. There will be a black wire (with a yellow tracer or line), a blue wire (with a yellow tracer) and a green wire (with a red tracer)
7. The green wire is not used and should be cut off at this point where it comes out the wiring harness’s protective wrapping
8. The black wire should be routed to the negative side of the ignition coil. Avoid the exhaust manifolds and sharp edges. Follow the cars existing wiring harness, if possible. Once suitable routed to the coil, cut the black wire and remove any excess. Strip the insulation off the last 1/4 inch of the wire. Crimp the round eyelet provided in the ignition kit to the exposed wire. Attach the black wire to the negative side of the ignition coil
9. Route the blue wire to the ballast resistor. Avoid the exhaust manifolds and sharp edges, follow existing wiring harnesses if possible
10. Disconnect the wires from both ends of the original ballast resister. Remove the old ballast resister and install the new ballast resister in its place. Do not reconnect the wires
11. Temporarily reconnect the negative battery cable. Make sure neither of the ballast resister wires are touching any metal and then turn the ignition key to the "on" position. Do not turn to the "start" position. Use your 12-volt tester to determine which one of two connectors you removed from the ballast resister is "hot" or has power. This is the "feed" side
12. Turn the ignition key off and disconnect the negative battery cable
13. The blue wire of the new wiring harness must be spliced into the "feed" connector identified in step #11. The feed connector must still be able to be plugged onto the ballast resistor, a splice must be made. The feed connector can contain from one to three wires in the original wiring harness. The easiest method of splicing these wires is to clip off the original female spade connector, strip 1/4 to 3/8 inch of insulation off the old wire(s) and the new blue wire, then crimp all of the wires back into a new female spade connecter. Other methods of splicing are acceptable, but this one seems to work the best. Use electrical tape to seal the connection
14. Reconnect both wiring connectors to the ballast resister
15. Proceed to "Basic Start Up and Adjustment"

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